The vanilla fragrance centres on a rich, enveloping note. MATIERE PREMIERE features an overdose of Vanilla Absolute Madagascar at the heart of Vanilla Powder. Contrasted by an explosion of modern white powders, it becomes a luminous and enveloping vanilla, long-lasting and instantly recognisable from the very first application. In Encens Suave, Aurélien Guichard combines vanilla with coffee to create a unique accord with the central overdose of Encens Essence Somalie.
Vanilla, from orchid to perfumery
Vanilla comes from an orchid, Vanilla planifolia, whose fruit produces the pod. Its name comes from the Spanish vainilla, meaning ‘little pod’. The plant is native to Mexico, where it grows in the wild. It was subsequently cultivated in other regions with a hot and humid climate, such as Madagascar, Réunion and Polynesia. The term ‘Bourbon vanilla’ refers to pods from Madagascar and Réunion.
Between the flower and the pod ready for use, the process involves hand-pollination followed by several months of preparation, which explains the importance of this ingredient in both perfumery and cooking.
Natural vanilla and vanillin
Vanillin is the molecule that carries the vanilla aroma. It serves as the basis for many fragrances and for most vanilla-flavoured food products, from desserts to hot drinks. Natural vanilla is not limited to this molecule: the absolute contains hundreds of components that impart notes of leather, tobacco and dried fruit. It is this richness that distinguishes a sweet vanilla scent from a perfumery-grade vanilla, which is both rounded and deep.
Vanilla at MATIERE PREMIERE
MATIERE PREMIERE builds its creations around a central natural ingredient, used in generous quantities within a concise formulation. The origin, the terroir, the people who cultivate it and the extraction method guide the selection of each essence, as these factors determine the final olfactory profile.
The Maison works with a Fair for Life Vanilla Absolute from Madagascar, chosen by Aurélien Guichard, Founder & Perfumer, for its salty, subtly sweet facets characteristic of vanilla grown between land and sea. After harvesting, the still-green pods are left to dry alternately in the sun and shade for 6 to 8 months, to allow for the harmonious development of all the aromas. At each stage, the pods undergo rigorous sorting to ensure they meet precise criteria for size, appearance, suppleness and moisture content.
Aurélien Guichard also cultivates three botanicals in the Grasse region, on Ecocert-certified land: Centifolia rose, tuberose and lavandin. The fragrances in the range contain 85 to 92 per cent naturally derived ingredients; they are vegan and free from phthalates and colourants.
The scent of vanilla fragrances
Vanilla imparts a warm scent, with an immediate sweetness and a slightly smoky, leathery base note. The nose also detects hints of tobacco and dried fruit. It is associated with comfort and memories, which explains its place in both perfumery and cooking.
As the leading ingredient in so-called ‘gourmand’ scents, it is combined with cocoa, coconut, woody notes and ylang-ylang, which adds a floral and milky touch. A hint of citrus or spice balances the composition, without ever overshadowing the central note. These combinations bring vanilla closer to amber and woody fragrances, two neighbouring families within the collection.
The result strikes a balance between comfort and sensuality, with an elegance that avoids cloying sweetness.
Vanilla and niche perfumes
The term ‘niche’ often crops up in searches for vanilla fragrances. Those who use it are looking for a distinctive olfactory signature, depth and long-lasting wear. MATIERE PREMIERE meets these expectations through its concentration, the choice of essences and the generous use of a central note. The Maison’s Vanilla Powder and Encens Suave creations are aimed at anyone seeking this kind of signature scent.
Vanilla fragrances for women and men
MATIERE PREMIERE creates its fragrances without any predefined gender. The scent develops differently on each person, depending on their skin, and it is this factor that matters when making a choice. The collection is worn by both women and men, with the same signature scent.
Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum concentrations
The intensity of a fragrance depends on its concentration of essential oils. Eau de Cologne ranges from 3 to 5 per cent, whilst Eau de Toilette ranges from 5 to 15 per cent. The Maison’s Eau de Parfum has a concentration of 20 to 25 per cent, and the Extrait de Parfum 25 to 30 per cent.
For the same amount of fragrance, the Extrait de Parfum offers a richer scent and a longer-lasting trail, whilst the accords reveal greater depth. The choice between the two depends on the occasion: Eau de Parfum for everyday wear, and the Extrait de Parfum for moments when you’re looking for a more distinctive scent.
Wearing a vanilla fragrance
Store the bottle upright, away from light and heat. Vanilla is at its best on the skin: body heat brings out the fragrance’s character, and the scent trail remains noticeable for hours after application. Warm areas of the body yield the best results: the wrists, the crook of the elbow and the nape of the neck.
Clean, moisturised skin retains the scent better, and the hand & body line – cleansing gel and moisturising milk – prepare the skin for this. Fragrances can also be applied to clothing, where the scent lasts even longer.
Vanilla fragrances can be worn in all seasons, offering that addictive comfort that the Maison seeks in its compositions.
