Amber fragrances are built around resins and warm notes. At MATIERE PREMIERE, Omani incense, Madagascan vanilla, Greek saffron, Australian sandalwood and Brazilian cabreuva have been selected by Aurélien Guichard for creations that exemplify this family, with a warm and long-lasting signature.
Amber: resins and warm notes
In the world of perfumery, the word ‘amber’ takes on a different meaning from that of the fossilised stone: it refers to a composition within a composition. It is an accord that brings together resins and warm, rounded and enveloping notes. It is described as a classic of French perfumery, an accord composed of resins. This family was also known as the oriental family; in the past, its fragrances were described as ‘orientals’. Ambergris, of animal origin, has left its mark on the history of this world. Today’s amber is derived from resins, plant-based ingredients and synthetic molecules.
Incense, labdanum, and benzoin
Incense is a resin. At MATIERE PREMIERE, the incense we use comes from Oman and is harvested from April to June. Encens Suave is built around this resin, enhanced by Labdanum Absolute Andalusia, derived from rockrose, and by Benzoin Absolute Sumatra, which accentuate the sensuality of the incense. A unexpected accord of coffee and vanilla warms the composition, and adds a sensual touch.
Amber at MATIERE PREMIERE
The Maison’s philosophy is simple: to start with a central natural ingredient, used in overdose at the heart of the composition, and to build the fragrance using a concise formulation. The selection of each ingredient is based on its olfactory profile, its origin, the region where it is grown, and the method of extraction. Five creations by Founder and Perfumer Aurélien Guichard belong to the amber family.
- Encens Suave: Incense Oil Oman, warmed by a unique blend of coffee and vanilla
- Crystal Saffron: Saffron Oil Greek, with a powerful and luminous character, almost crystalline
- Santal Austral: Organic Sandalwood Oil Australia, present from the very start in all its clear intensity
- Bois d’Ébène: Cabreuva Oil Brazil, a patchwork of dark, amber-tinged woody textures
- Vanilla Powder: Vanilla Absolute Madagascar, Fair for Life agricultural program, whose dark richness is contrasted by modern white powders
Encens Suave, Crystal Saffron, Santal Austral, and Vanilla Powder are also available as perfume extracts – a version in which the concentration is taken even further, the proportion of the main ingredient is higher, and the addition of a guest ingredient brings a new facet to the note. In addition to their amber character, Santal Austral and Bois d’Ébène also feature woody facets, placing them within the olfactory family of woody fragrances.
The scent of an amber fragrance
The scent of an amber fragrance combines several warm facets, ranging from resinous to woody notes. This signature maintains a consistent olfactory presence, and the scent trail remains detectable for hours after application. On the skin, the sensation is enveloping. In Encens Suave, labdanum and benzoin accentuate the sensuality of the incense note, warmed by an accord of coffee and vanilla. The saffron in Crystal Saffron offers vibrant, rich and assertive notes. Vanilla creates a natural link between the amber and vanilla fragrance families. Within the collection, Vanilla Powder and Encens Suave belong to both these families.
An amber fragrance for women and men
There is nothing in the nature of amber that restricts a fragrance to a particular gender. MATIERE PREMIERE creates its fragrances without any predefined gender. The scent develops differently from one person to another, depending on the skin, and it is this factor that guides the choice – a question of personality rather than category. Amber creations are worn by both women and men, with the same signature scent.
Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum
The intensity of a fragrance depends on its concentration of oils. Eau de Cologne ranges from 3 to 5 per cent, whilst Eau de Toilette ranges from 5 to 15 per cent. The Maison’s Eau de Parfum has a concentration of 20 to 25 per cent, and Extrait de Parfum 25 to 30 per cent. For the same amount of fragrance, the extract offers a richer scent and a longer-lasting trail. Each Extrait de Parfum combines the heart note with a guest ingredient, with the aim of adding a new facet to the creation. The choice depends on the desired effect: Eau de parfum is suitable for both everyday wear and special occasions, whilst the extract is ideal for moments when a more distinctive scent is desired.
Wearing an amber fragrance
Store the bottle upright, away from light and heat. Amber fragrances are at their best on the skin: body heat brings out their full character. Warm areas of the body yield the best results: the inside of the wrists, the crook of the elbow and the nape of the neck. Clean, moisturised skin retains the scent better, and products from the Hands and Body range, such as the Vanilla Powder moisturising lotion or the cleansing gel, help the fragrance last longer. Fragrances can also be applied to clothing, where the scent lasts even longer. The entire collection offers a complete olfactory experience.
